Category Archives: Miniature Painting Tutorials

I show you how to tint paint tranparent cockpit canopy

In my earlier miniature painting service project Eldar Fire Prism, there was the challenge of tinting transparent plastic parts for the Fire Prism cockpit and crystals. I wanted to create a yellow tint base on my colour design for the Fire Prism. After much research and experiment, I am going to show you how to tint transparent plastic cockpit canopy.

tint transparent plactic

I used Tamiya Enamel Paint, clear yellow paint. To dilute the Enamel paint, Enamel thinner is needed. The more dilute the Enamel paint is diluted, the lighted the tint will be. Mix the Enamel paint and thinner accordingly to the level of lightness needed. Test and practice it on some transparent sprue section first before starting on the actual transparent parts.

tint transparent plactic

To start, paint the Enamel paint in quick strokes in a consistent same direction. Do not go over the painted section again, as this will create more brush strokes texture as the Enamel paint is drying up. Once dried, the Enamel paint will show a clear consistent tint.

For the Fire Prism cockpit, I painted the tint on the inside of the cockpit windows. The crystals are painted on the outside like any normal painting. Cheers!

I show you how to paint rust effect

In my earlier post, my Ogre Maneater Pirate was holding an old rusty anchor. I painted the anchor with a rust effect. Thought I show you how I manage to paint the rust effect.

For the anchor, it is painted with a base of Citadel Scorched Brown, after the usual base coat black. I am using a Games Workshop stippling brush to work on the effect from here. You don’t to use a GW stippling brush, but any suitable size old brush that are stiff bristles could do the job as well.

painting rust

painting rust

Start off with Citadel Beastial Brown with the stippling brush in a up down poking motion. Once dried, I mixed Citadel Beastial Brown with Sunburst Yellow, and followed with the stippling brush action. Finally, last round of stippling action is done with a mix of Citadel Sunburst Yellow and Blood Red. And there you have it, a rust effect with a simple stippling action. You can add more effect with dry brush of Citadel Bolt Gunmetal at the edges to create worn off rust effect revealing the metal. Cheers!

I show you how to make miniature stain glass effect

I am gonna to show you how I created the stain glass for my Kingdom Death Great Game Hunter backdrop. As with my miniatures stories goes, I pictured my Kingdom Death Great Game Hunter to be standing by a stain glass window in some part of her castle, getting ready for the great hunt. My initial idea was to paint one, but I thought it would be nice if its a real glass effect. After much research and testing, here’s how I created the stain glass.

I started of building the wall segment for the backdrop with blue foam. Cut some blue foam in small brick size and build up as a wall on a blue foam backing. After the wall is build up, the window slot is cut open and edges are cleaned up as shown below.

stain glass window making

Next I use a thin 1 mm brass rod and bend it into an outline of the window shape. Cut out small short pieces of brass wire to roughly form the shape pattern of the window.

stain glass window making
stain glass window making

Now for the gluing part. I fitted the wire outline into the foam window cutout. I used a CA glue accelerator along with CA glue. First I apply some CA glue accelerator around the brass wire and the foam. Then after which, CA glue is quickly applied around the brass wire and foam. With the accelerator taking effect, the CA glue is immediately crystallized and dried.

stain glass window making

For the window frame pattern, I used the same technique as mentioned above. Apply the accelerator on the joining brass wire, using a plier to hold the wire in position to the wire frame, quickly drip CA glue onto the join section. The CA glue will crystallized immediately forming a welded look-alike joint. Continue until the pattern is formed as shown.

stain glass window making

Once everything is dried, the wall is base coated black. While waiting for the black coat to dry, I sketched and decide on the stain glass pattern colours.

The wall is then painted with a mix of Citadel Chaos Black & Skull White mix forming a grey colour. After then it is washed with Bedab Black. Once dried, it is dry brush with Skull White. Finally the brass wire is painted with Tin Bitz and washed with Bedab Black.

stain glass window making

stain glass window making

To create the stain glass, I used Golden Self Leveling Gel. Take a small amount of gel and mix it with Citadel Dark Angel Green . Mix the gel with the colour slowly to prevent air bubbles from forming. Using a tooth pick, drip the coloured gel around the section of the wire frame. With enough gel at the wire frame, try to pull the gel across the wire frame to form a closed gel. If there are too much gel on the wire frame, you can use a old brush and brush away the extras. Leave the window frame in a lying down position when drying. Wait for the gel to dry and repeat with the blue and red gel.

stain glass window making
stain glass window making
stain glass window making
stain glass window making

When the gel is dried, if holes are formed on the gel, you can apply a thin layer of the colour gel over the holes to patch it up.

stain glass window making

Now, when all the gels are dried, it will formed a clear shining coloured glass effect. Overall, building this stain glass effect has been a really enjoyable and fun experience. If you are creating diorama with windows and glass, should try it. I just had an idea, maybe some of my Cities of Death can have glass effects… Hmm… back to more painting… Cheers!

Applying model decal with decal softener

Mr Mark Softer decal softenerWhen I was about to apply the Ultramarines symbol decal to the painted Ultramarines project I had, I did recalled I read about a solution called decal softener sometime ago. Basically if you are applying a decal to flat surface, then its easy and straight forward. But the problem comes in, when the surface which you are going to apply the decal to is not a flat but curve or irregular surface. The decal softener will act an agent that will soften the decal to form the surface of the miniature. And so, I drop by my local modeling shop, and got this Mr Mark Softer decal softener. I will run through some steps on applying decal and the decal softener.

Got my small dip of water ready. Cut out the decal and drop it the water dip. Within a few seconds, the decal is ready to be applied.

model decal applying preparation

decal applying

A. Using a tweezer, carefully take the decal and lay on the desired position.
B. Carefully slide the decal onto the Space Marine shoulder pad.
C. Carefully position the decal to your desired position.

decal applying

D. Take some tissue and twist into a sharp roll and drain out the excess water.
E. Apply the Decal Softener, and wait for a few minutes.
F. Using a brush, brush the decal from inside outwards to flatten the decal to the surface (see pict). The excess decal solution will be absorbed by the brush as your bush outward.

And, thats it, the decal is applied. See the picture below, the decal on the left is having excess fold when the decal is applied onto a curve surface. The picture on the right, after applying and brushed with the decal softener, we can see the decal has soften and conform to the curve surface of the miniature.

decal applying

If you have lots of decals to apply on a curve or irregular surface, this decal softener is really useful. Definitely will make those decal conform nicely to your miniatures or vehicles surfaces. Cheers!

I show you how to paint Grey Knights Purifier

Got my Grey Knight Purifier painted earlier ago, and now working on the rest of the squad. Progress have been slow due to some commissioned works I am working on. Anyway, I will share with everyone how I got my Grey Knights painted in my usual “I show you how to paint”… Here goes…

grey knights painting

1. Started with a basecoat of Citadel Chaos Black. My Grey Knights is based on a colour theme of titanium colour. Once the basecoat is dried, base colour the Grey Knights in a mixture of Citadel Chainmail and Shinning Gold. The bolter and other metal parts are base coloured with Citadel Bolt gunmetal. For the helmet, I mixed Citadel Skull White with Chainmail to achieve a sort of shining metal white colour feel. Once all the base colour are done, Citadel Badab Black is washed onto the whole miniature.

Grey Knights highlighting

2. Next is the highlighting of the titanium colour armour. I will explain the method to the highlighting which I applied to all the armour in the Grey Knights. In my wet palette, I got 3 paints, Citadel Mithril Silver, Titanium mix and Badab wash. Start by painting Citadel Mithril Silver along the edge of the Grey Knights’ leg.

Grey Knights highlighting

3. While the Citadel Mithril Silver highlight at the edge is still wet, take the Titanium colour mix and blend with the Mithril Silver at the edge. The key thing to remember is the Mithril Silver and the Titanium mix must be just wet enough to blend. After the blend is done and the paint still wet, take Badab Black and blend the titanium mix to the base colour of the armour. Take a little practice to get the wetness and consistency right to blend. I use this method & colour scheme for the highlights on the Grey Knights.

Grey Knights highlighting

4. Once the main armour highlighting is done, next is to finish off the small details. All the skull and inscription are coloured with Citadel Shinning Gold and wash with Gryphonne Sepia. The purity seals are coloured with Citadel Bleached Bone, washed with Devian Mud, then highlighted with Bleached Bone and Skull White. The Storm Bolter and power armour backpack is finished off with a light dry brush of Citadel Mithril SIlver.

painting Nemesis Force Halberd

5. Next for the Nemesis Force Halberd. The Halberd is coloured with Citadel Bolt gunmetal, and the blade portion coloured with Mithril Silver. Then it is wash with a diluted wash of Midnight Blue. The blade portion is then painted with a mix of Citadel Mithril Silver, Skull White and a tiny bit of Midnight Blue. The rounded corner of the blade is then blended with the mix of Citadel Mithril Silver and Skull White.

painting Nemesis Force Halberd

6. For the lightning stroke on the Halberd, I started with a diluted mix of Citadel Skull White and painted a random broad lightning stroke effect. Next, taking a heavy Skull White, painting thin strokes over the lightning strokes. This will give a blend effect from the diluted Skull White blending to the heavy SKull White. The edges that holds the Halberd, I did a light dry brush on the edges with a mix of Citadel Skull White and tiny Midnight Blue. The edges are then edges out with Skull White. And now, you can feel the power of the Nemesis Force Halberd!
grey knights purfier
Finished off the rest of the details and finally based the Grey Knights, and my Grey Knights Purifier is ready to battle. FOR THE EMPEROR!

I show you how to magnetize Grey Knights Special Weapons

Special weapons options, psycannon or psilencer or incinerator? Upon examining the arms and torso of the Grey Knights miniatures assembly, I found there seems to be just enough surface area to hold a magnet for a special weapon magnetization option.

Rumbling through my bitz as I recalled I still have surplus of magnets lying around. Found my magnet having a nice size fit on the arm joint surface area of the Grey Knights. My magnets are from Gaussboys Super Magnets at size 4mm x 1mm disc magnet.

grey knight magnetization

To hold the magnet onto the arm end area, a shallow hole of diameter 4mm is needed. After much experiments, I found a faster way to remove the excess plastic materials. I found an Ikea allen key that is around the magnet diameter size. Heated up the end of the allen key over a stove flame until its super super hot. Then I pressed the hot allen key onto the plastic arm ends. This melts the plastic forming a shallow hole. Once done and the plastic turned solid, I used a penknife and trimmed off the excess plastic edges. Touch up till the magnet sits perfectly into the shallow hole. Drop in the magnet and super glue it, and one arm is done.

grey knight magnetization

For the torso of the Grey Knights, I cut a round hole around the arm section until the magnet sits perfect inside. I continue with this working method and managed to assemble 2 sets of special weapons, psycannon and psilencer.

grey knight magnetization
grey knights purifier

Now my squad of Purifier have 1 special weapons option, psycannon or psilencer. I leave my other Grey Knight having a fixed option of the psycannon. The box of Grey Knight marines only come with one psilencer, so probably I will assemble the other option with a set of incinerator option. Now… time to get these Purifiers painted… Cheers!

FOR THE EMPEROR!

I show you how to paint AOW Warrior Priest

My Avatar of War Warrior Priest is finally done up for the contest, meantime, waiting for the deadline to close and judging/voting to begin. For now, let me run through my work in progress and how you how I got my Avatar of War Warrior Priest painted.

Like I mentioned in my previous post, I was inspired by the Warrior Priest in the Warhammer Mark of Chaos trailer. The plan was to paint the Hammer in a full sort of white yellow glow with lights spilling all over one side of the Priest’s face, armour and clothes. Before I started, I watched the Warhammer Mark of Chaos trailer over quite a few times just to get the idea of the colours and the effects of the glow. Looked around for pictures on the web as well to see how glow or bright light would be like when it lands on clothes and such. I even got a touch light and shine the light from the miniature Warrior Priest’s hammer position just to see where the light would fall upon on the priest miniature. So much research for painting a glow…haha, but it was a fun paint job. I guess I was too excited as well, that I forgot to snap more pictures of some of the painting stages.

avatar of war priest wip

Once the Priest miniature is assembled, I did a base coat of Citadel Chaos Black on the Priest, leaving the hammer arm and a small portion of the body which I later base coated in Skull White. Blended the Citadel Chaos Black and Skull white to form a grey tone between the black and white transition. Once that is dried, did a first round base colour of Citadel Red Gore on the cloth area, Beastial Brown for the belts and leather, Chainmail for the armour and Bleach bone for the scrolls.

avatar of war priest wip

Next, washed the whole miniature with Citadel wash Badab Black except the scroll which is wash with Devlan Mud. Blended and highlighted the cloth, leather & belts with mix of skull white and the base colours. It’s the one colour base system highlight I have always been painting my style with.

avatar of war priest wip

For the hammer arm, I diluted some Citadel Sunburst yellow and wash the hammer arm. Mixing Citadel Blood Red and Sunburst Yellow to create an orange mix, I painted the edges of the hammer and slowing blend to the white yellowish base colour of the hammer. The hammer handle, the arm and the one side of the face, I highlighted with sunburst yellow, and slowly blending it to the base colour. Finished it off with a final thin highlights of Skull White on the high areas. The armour is also washed with a diluted Citadel Sunburst Yellow, thereafter some minor dry bush and highlights with Mithril Silver. The cloth pattern was freehand painted with a mix of Citadel Sunburst yellow and Shinning Gold. After that, I wash the pattern with Devlan Mud, followed by highlights of Citadel Sunburst Yellow & Skull White on the high points of the fire-ball pattern in front. Sure had lots of fun painting the freehand patterns.

Finally, after touching up all the minor details with highlights and such, I based the Warrior Priest with a small slate of wood with 2 arrows. I did some minor dry brush highlight of Citadel Sunburst Yellow on the ends of the arrows to show some glow light landing on the arrows’ end as well.

Overall, I sure had lots of fun painting the Avatar of War Warrior Priest, especially the glowing hammer arm side. The result did not really turn out to my expected expectation or what I had imagined in my mind. I figured that maybe its the colours and blend, probably with try out another project later on for more practice experiment. Another possible reason I figured, maybe the miniature lacks a diorama, like a wall or tree beside him. Cos if there are walls or tall object beside him, there would be light landing on them, thus creating a more wholesome glowing effect. So maybe painting the glows on these surrounding objects would bring out a greater wholesome glow feel. Will definitely explore these effect more… Cheers!

The Story of Wet Palette

The first time I came across the idea of wet palette from articles online was like quite a while back. Did not really bother to try out. Thought that my usual paint and palette would just be fine to go for the painting activities I am having.

Then I came across wet palette again, when I saw Rowney Stay Wet palette paper. It was the concept of a wet palette. Bought a simple paint tray and cut the Rowney’s membrane and reservoir paper to fit my tray. First impression was that, the reservoir paper seems like it will hold moisture and water well, but the membrane paper felt very much like a wax paper, was wondering are you sure it will work…? Anyway, I tried the set up, and my paint still dry out as usual. Rowney’s wet palette paper does not seems to work, and I gave up the idea of wet palette.

wet palette paper

It was until I read another article about wet palette from BOLS that I decided to try it out once again. Parchment paper was recommended for the wet palette set up. I recalled that my work place having a baking shop selling all sort of baking need, and I bought a roll of parchment paper to try.

parchment paper

For the reservoir paper, I used back Rowney reservoir paper, it seems to hold moisture and water well. Other paper like serviette, kitchen roll or any good moisture holding paper would be good. So, the set up is like this… tray followed by reservoir paper, splashes of water to wet the reservoir paper then followed by parchment paper.

wet palette

Tested the wet palette. Drop a drop of paint on the palette and went back about hours later to see, the paint is still wet. Finally, its works! I spend the probably about an hour and a half in the afternoon painting my Dark Eldar, mixing and blending, the painting still stays wet and good.

wet palette

Managed to blend and outline my Dark Eldar turquoise armour for that hour plus period without taking any extra paint out. Now, to get more painting done, and more paint saved…. Cheers!

Vampire Counts Black Coach and Nightmare Horse conversion

Brace for impact! Vampire Counts Black Coach!

Had some fun assembling my Vampire Counts Black Coach over the Christmas weekend. Lot of metal bitz to file and clean up as usual for all metal miniatures. Now the exciting part was my fingers and hands did not stain of any CA super glue, only a minor drips on my thumb which I wiped away fast. All thanks to the CA glue accelerator and it has become one of the important needs in metal miniature assembling. Cool!

The next thing that was disappointing, was the Vampire Counts Black Coach box did not come with a chariot base. Is it suppose to have or am I missing it? Then my son was asking me, how come there is only 1 base for the skeleton horse. Oh no, another horse base is missing. Gosh, this must be one of those unlucky mispack box that I landed with.

Rumble through my bitz only managed to find I have an extra horse base, the chariot base is still missing. I discovered that most of the online stores does not have chariot bases, only Wayland Games have, but its a bit pricey extra for a base. Besides, ordering online will take time, like a week or so to come, but I want to finish assembling my Black Coach.

My local hobby stores do not have any chariot base as well, they happen to have 25 x 100 regiment base. Just lucky, got 2 of those to assemble into a perfect 50 x 100 chariot base.

vampire counts black coach

Oh ya, the nightmare horses. I don’t like the bony nightmare horses from the box. So, I decided to do a little conversion for my nightmare horses. In my mind and impression, I imagine nightmare horses are with flesh and skin, but with torn of glow scar and some part of the horses having see through skeleton parts. My idea is to split a regular horse miniature face and convert the other half of the horse face with skeleton bones.

I decided to use the spare horses I have from the Empire Outriders. Using a curving knife and penknife, managed to cut half of the horse face out.

nightmare horse conversion

Then I cut the skeleton horse head, from the Black Coach box, into half. Glued half of the skeleton horse head to the horse with the cut out half face.

nightmare horse conversion

Using the curving knife, dug out a groove and glues the skeleton neck onto the horse. Took some green stuff and sculpt the gaps and grooves to look like horse flesh.

nightmare horse conversion
nightmare horse conversion

Managed to convert the 2 horses, each having skeleton face on the opposite sides. Piece them up with the Vampire Counts Black Coach, and its ready to charge!

nightmare horse conversion

Not yet… still have to get it painted! Nightmares, here I come… cheers!

I show you how to paint Vampire Counts Varghulf

The Vampire Count mood is kicking in hard. Few weeks left before 2010 end and I am trying hard to complete as much Vampire Counts miniatures as much as possible.

With my Varghulf completed recently, I show you how I painted my Vampire Count Varghulf. The Varghulf have quite fair bit of skin and fur texture. I used a fair bit of dry brushing for the fur part of the miniature model. When I started the Varghulf, I was pretty excited about painting it (vampire hype kicking in next), not sure why also, haha, probably the vampire aura kicking around. So excited, that I forgotten to snap pictures for the progress of some of the painting steps.

vampire counts varghulf

1. Started the base colouring for the Varghulf with Citadel Fortress Grey for the skin, Beastial Brown for the fur area and Bleached Bone for the claws. Next, the fortress grey skin and claws are washed with Devlan Mud, the fur is washed with Badab Black.

For the grey skin tone of the Varghulf, I experimented with a wet blending technique using the Devlan wash. I shall explained the steps below. The rest of the skins are all painted using this method.

vampire counts varghulf

a. The Citadel Fortress Grey skin tone is washed with Devlan Mud.

vampire counts varghulf

b. Citadel Fortress Grey is painted on the high point of the skin.

vampire counts varghulf

c. Using Citadel Devlan Mud as a blending agent, mix Devlan Mud with Fortress Grey and paint around the highlighted Fortress Grey area.

vampire counts varghulf

d. Using Citadel Devlan Mud blend the Fortress Grey with the mix of Devlan Mud & Fortress Grey.

vampire counts varghulf

e. Smooth out the blend where necessarily with the Citadel Devlan Mud wash and Fortress Grey. Finish off with a thin highlight of Skull White on the high points.

The fur is dry brushed with Citadel Beastial Brown, followed by a mix of Beastial Brown and Skull White, and finally a thin shade of Skull White on the high points.

vampire counts varghulf

The winged skin I decided to maintain in black colour. Its dry brushed with Citadel Skull White, focusing on the edges and slots on the wing, followed by a wash of Gryphonne Sepia.

The blending method using the Citadel Devlan Mud as a blending agent proofed to have a smooth result. The painted skin is finished off with a smooth blend feel. Finished off the base with some Citadel Hero Basing Kit skull piles.

Argghh… Varghulf is ready to tear someone or something apart… haha. Now back to more Vampire Counts, nearly finishing my Vampire Counts Lord… Argghh… I can smell blood…. hahaha…. Cheers!